Preheat the oven to 190C/180C fan*/gas mark 5.Halve, peel and deseed the pumpkin or squash and cut it into chunks. Spread out the chunks in a single layer in a roasting tin. Drizzle with a little oil, season and toss everything with your hands.
Roast for 15 minutes, or until the pieces are soft and slightly caramelised at the edges.
Meanwhile, make the spice and herb paste by dropping everything for it into a food processor and blitzing it, scraping down the sides a couple of times to ensure everything gets puréed. You’ll end up with a slightly coarse mixture.
Heat ½ tbsp oil in a large saucepan and sauté the paste over a medium heat, stirring every so often, for about five minutes. Add the coconut cream and stock or water and bring to just under the boil. Simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the potatoes and lime leaves and, again, bring to a simmer. Cook until the vegetables are just tender, then add the pumpkin or squash and cook for another four minutes or so. If serving later, stop now, before you add the greens.
When you want to serve, cut the sugar snaps lengthways and add them to the pan with the spinach, lime juice and sugar. Simmer for just over a minute. Taste for sweet-sour-salty balance.
Stir in some coriander and scatter the rest on the top, with the chillies. Serve with rice.